Fellsman 24 - another fantastic Fellsman

This year was the 60th Fellsman. After almost being called off last year due to low numbers, it was a sell out event with 360 (of a 500 limit) showing up on the day. There were a lot of first timers, but a lot of veterans too.

We drove up on the friday night for registration and parked up in the quarry. It was obvious that there were more people just by the volume of vehicles in the car park, but even more obvious when we reached the school at around 8:15 to find the registration/kit check queue extending all the way out onto the street. The queue moved fairly quickly though, and we passed the time chatting with a chap I'd met last year while warming up at Cray.

Once registration was done we queued a short time for kit check. Karen popped up to say hi, pleased at having sold some mats and dog toys in aid of Mountain Rescue. Kit check was really well organised, they'd anticipated the increased volume and got lots more people at the desks than usual. The usual problem with people dropping things and losing them though - the advice to use a shopping bag to carry your kit is good, and the bigger the bag the better. When getting everything out from a race bag people inevitably drop things on the floor. I have a huge 150 litre bedding bag - as things come out to be checked, they can just be dropped back in to pack later.

Giant kit check bag

Once we were done we dropped our finish bags at the sports hall and headed back to the quarry. We were back in the van at 10pm for some wine & cheese and an early night, in bed by about 11.

....

4:45am. It never gets any easier. The stove in my van is horribly slow, so although we managed to scarf down some pain au chocolat we didn't have any tea before it was time to catch the shuttle to the school. Boo.

Down at the school we saw a few people we knew: we'd seen Ros spectating last year, and this year she'd entered. Dom Camponi was there, and we talked briefly about the upcoming Stanza Stones. 

We had time for a cup of tea, then on the bus at 6am to Ingleton. While queuing to pick up trackers we met someone who works with Daz Graham, who told us he'd dropped out the night before. That added a bit of weight to my bag as I was carrying a hand held GPS for him.

More tea, sorting out race numbers etc, then out onto the field for the start. The crowd was noticeably bigger than recent years, and that probably contributed to the 25 minute delay in starting.

Once we got going I kept my speed down. I'd gone out a bit too quick last year and got caught up with a crowd. This year I took it easier and Claire caught me up fairly soon. I spotted Adrian Gosling in passing and said hi.  I didn't bother with the Turf zone on Ingleborough, and carried on down into the valley. It was much nicer being further back in the pack without the crowding down the hill into Humphrey Bottom. On to the checkpoint, and I ate a pitta pizza on the way up the lane towards Whernside, while chatting with a runner from the IoM who I saw on and off to the finish.

I saw Bill Johnson briefly as I reached the summit path on Whernside, but no sign of Karen so I wasn't overcooking it. Up to the trig, clip, and down to the stile. Over the stile feeling fairly positive and down through the tussocks into Kingsdale. Picked up some fluo yellow gloves from the path and just on a hunch asked someone I was overtaking if they were hers. They were, which was good (especially if she didn't have spares!).

At the checkpoint at Kingsdale I grabbed a couple of jaffa cakes and carried on up the hill. I was taking bites out of the 2nd pitta pizza from time to time to keep a bit of food going on, but should probably have been eating more.

Up to the top of Gragareth, noticing an unexpected pickaxe left on a crag near the top. Clipped at the CP, and back to the wall. This year I opted to stick to the left as per the points to observe (last year I did the first couple of hundred metres on the right), which wasn't too bad except for one large bog. I went in both feet up to the knee, then sat down in wet moss. Took a few moments to drag myself out then plodded on. It was sunny although the wind was cool, so I was drying out OK. I had 2 base layers and a windproof on, and although I didn't feel warm I was quite sweaty inside the windproof. Something to improve on there. In the past I've had a windproof gilet which was much better, but the zip failed recently and I haven't replaced it yet. With the big bag on acting like a coat I could probably have got away without the windproof. The general theme during daylight was "fresh and cold on the tops, warm in the valley bottoms". 

At Crag Hill I took a much better line than last year, passing slightly to the right of the big reentrant and joining the trod at the wall. It was boggy all the way down to Flinter Gill CP. On then to Flinter Gill itself, picking my way slowly down the gravel & setts into Dent. Claire told me later there were people going down the path along the field edge to the left, which looks like an OK route but probably violates the "Points to Observe on the route" (hereafter referred to as "PTO"), which tells you to use the "walled track".

Rather than the shortcut to the right, I stuck to the route specified in the PTO and dropped right down into the village, before turning right up to the CP at the campsite run by my home village scout troop. I noticed when I took my pack off to get something out of the back that the straps were white with salt. I have a habit of dressing a bit too warm.

I filled up my water bottle and ate a couple of cheese and onion rolls, then set off walking along the road as I chewed. Once I'd eaten I alternated between steady running on the flat/down and walking the uphills. At the climb up towards Boot of the Wold I caught up with 147 (Gary Bradley) for the first of many times. We chatted a bit as we'd both done the Fellsman multiple times, as well as other races (including the LAW100). He passed me again as I stopped for a pee before crossing the moss between Boot of the Wold and Blea Moor, then I caught up again shortly before the CP.

Coming to the fence on the way down from Blea Moor I stuck a bit closer to the fence before hopping over and cutting down to the air shaft. I'm still not sure about this shortcut - the terrain is rough underfoot so I'm not sure it's better than staying on the clear trod. Better than passing way to the right like I did last year though.

I was feeling a bit tired coming down through the woods, but kept a good pace on the road. Julian Brown overtook me just as we reached the CP at Stonehouse and were directed into kit check.

As directed, I displayed my head torch, waterproof, map & compass and warm layer then went into the food tent where the volunteers were all entertainingly dressed as Alice in Wonderland characters. Not being able to eat pasta, I had a cup of tea and ate my Jamaican pasty and rested for ten minutes or so talking to Julian. Before leaving I swapped my windproof for the waterproof, anticipating that it might be cold on Great Knoutberry.

Fed, I got going up the hill feeling pretty good. I marched at a fair pace up to the Great Knoutberry turn, then on up to the summit. Back down from the CP (NO URINATING!) and just as I was about to reach the Artengill track again I met Claire. She was fighting a range of different pains but still pushing on, we had a hug and she set off for the top. I headed on towards Redshaw. I found a really good trod just beyond the point where the path veers left, and followed it through a gully and along for almost the whole way, turning uphill slightly towards the base of the scar near the end. Turning downhill towards the CP, I found another good trod that paralleled the wall all the way to the gate. I seemed to be the only one using the gate as per the PTO as everyone else was climbing the wall in the corner.

Down to Redshaw and some malt loaf and cheese.  I still hadn't had a cup of tea, but was keeping my pace sensible. A short break in the CP and on towards Snaizeholme. This next section was even boggier than usual and at one point I jumped over a large pool. The far edge broke under my foot and I plunged in up to the thigh. The temperature wasn't too bad at this point though, so it didn't make me uncomfortably cold.

I was feeling pretty much OK on the way up to Snaizeholme, in contrast to last year. A very young volunteer clipped my tally at Snaizeholme and told me I was the lowest number so far. I could see Gary not far ahead of me, and carried on up to the Pennine Bridleway.

Just as I reached the Cam High Road at the corner with the Pennine Way it started to rain quite hard. I was feeling a lot better than at this point last year, and was making OK time along the lane. I zipped up and kept myself cosy and it was all good.

Up Dodd Fell. The climb was a bit slower than I'd been earlier in the day, but I'd eaten what I thought was plenty. Just tiring a little bit. Clipped at the top and headed out into the bog.

I was overtaken by a group of 4 at this point, then caught them up along the wall. They climbed through a broken section of wall which looked well sketchy to me - more stone was sliding out from the breach and worsening it. I opted to go round to the cattle grid to avoid any further damage. As I approached the cattle grid 2 runners came from the right through the cattle grid in the wrong direction and set off along the wall directly towards the CP, a variation on the wrong route I was taken along in 22.

Through the two gates - with beacons on them this year for the walkers later in the evening. I opted to take the track down to the road and climb back up, rather than run across the rough tussock on the top. Claire later told me there was a nice clear trod all the way over (there wasn't last year, but I guess it's been cut by people recceing).

Up to the CP and got a cup of tea to drink while I changed my socks. My feet had been wet for quite a while and fairly cold, and I could feel a wrinkle in my sock under the ball of my foot that was starting to turn into maceration & could cause problems. I was concerned about immersion foot, having had problems in previous races (including last year's Fellsman). Reaching my feet turned out to be tricky, and I had a bit of a battle with cramp while I changed my socks over. Once I was sorted with the socks, I scoffed down some rice pudding and some malt loaf from my bag and got going.

Claire arrived at the field corner just as I left the CP, and we had a quick chat, then I headed down the road. This was the first sign that I was in far better condition than last year, as I was able to run the whole leg to the CP at Deepdale, overtaking several people as I went.

I had a lovely run down the Dales Way to Yockenthwaite farm, although the sips of peanut butter I was taking made me burp a bit and feel nauseous. At the bottom of the climb I stopped and sat on the grass verge to get my torch and hat out. The hat was a bit of a nuisance - it's a Montane Prism hat, very warm but one size "fits" all. It's a bit small for my big head and tends to chafe my ears. It's great as a compact hat for mid-camp, but I don't like wearing it to run. At this point it was about 8.30pm, so we were coming up on 12 hours.

Up the track, which is a nice steep climb, then as the track veers off hard to the left on top of a rise, I took a bearing towards the gate. I climbed a little too high and in the growing gloom struggled to make out the main gate, so ended up going through a gate about 20 vertical metres higher. This was a perfectly OK route (handy to know the alternative, since the main route is quite boggy), and I carried on along the same bearing. This actually translates as heading for the right hand end of the flat spot on the scar ahead, and in the end I climbed to that exact point which put me right on the correct level for the CP, not far ahead. I followed the edge of the scar and was at the CP. As I climbed, a nearby runner told me he thought I was too far left, which was nice of him. They were only slightly behind me at the CP so their line must have been pretty good.

At this point I should have put my primaloft jacket on, but I felt warm enough so just cracked on along the wall to Hell Gap CP in the now pitch dark. I was surprised by head torches rather than a searchlight and no music - the volunteers had walked in this year. They were awfully jolly considering they were standing in a very cold place on a hilltop in the dark!

Dropping down to Cray it got cold. I realised later that this track is a) exposed; b) too rough to run on well in the dark and fog; and c) downhill. So having been nice and warm while I was working hard, I lost a lot of heat very quickly and arrived at Cray rather cold. The CP was really crowded and I ended up sat on a bench barely inside the door, which didn't help at all.

The crew at the CP were all hands dealing with other cold people. Marie (according to her hat) spotted that I wasn't right and shoved me next to the fire with a blanket. This year I only took 20 minutes to warm up rather than the 90 minutes it took last year, but as I got up to leave Claire arrived. We talked briefly and decided that, since we'd been averaging the same speed up to now, we might as well stick together for the rest. By now we were both tired enough to have converged on roughly the same pace.

I checked that I was OK to leave (last year I was told to stay put in no uncertain terms), and we got going. Claire had a good line up Buckden Pike and we were at the top wall in no time, catching my IoM acquaintance as we climbed. 

We made good time up the Pike and ran steadily along the top. Paused to touch the fox, and headed down through the bog. Claire had a rather neat logical process for avoiding the worst of the bog, I just slogged my way down it.

Turning right through the small gate in the wall, we dropped out of the cloud as we approached the Starbotton Moor path and had no difficulties finding it. We followed it without any problems since we know this leg well, and were soon at the CP (which seemed to be further down the path than last year, or  maybe it was just me).

As we approached Park Rash I started to feel wobbly again. 4 hours sleep and 50 miles of running was taking it's toll. We stopped for a few minutes at Park Rash while I ate some chocolate and drank a cup of coffee. This worked miracles (I need to do something about caffeine during races - I drink a lot of tea on a normal day, and not consuming enough caffeine is a problem I've encountered on long drives too).

We waded through the bog and rushes at the bottom of Black Dyke until we found the trod, then climbed up to the stile. This seemed like a particularly long climb. As we contoured round towards the summit of Great Whernside a group that had left Park Rash ahead of us came down to meet us. They were having some nav problems and ended up sticking with us all the way to Capplestone Gate.

At the CP the Felltrack box wasn't working correctly and the marshal wasn't having a great time. He seemed surprised but happy about the flask of hot water I'd brought up from Park Rash CP.

We followed the trod along the top of the ridge, keeping an eye on the compass. The trod trends SSE, then turns south and then SW to follow the fence down. Our companions were occasionally checking their GPS but seemed content with the route we were taking.

At the bottom of Sweet Hill is the worst bog in the whole route. We noted but didn't take the early trod (mistake, but not a costly one) and worked our way to the west to avoid the worst of the groughs, then roughly SW across the sedge to land on the wall. Not the best line I've taken there, but not bad by any means.

Claire and I marched fast along the path to Capplestone Gate, clipped, and headed down to the wall breach. We both stopped to pee after the wall crossing, and our followers passed us, pausing to check with us that the trod directly ahead was the right route. Another group passed us here too, which we later deduced must have contained Ros.

Although we were walking most of this section we were moving pretty quick. Once we got onto the walled track to Yarnbury we started to run a bit more, and after Yarnbury CP we ran the rest of the way down to Threshfield, passing Ros and then our earlier followers near the bottom of the market place. We got into the finish and checked in with Felltrack with a time of 19:27. It was about 4.30am, quite a bit earlier than last year.

I was in better shape than I've ever been in at the end of the Fellsman - testament to taking it a bit easier; eating more and the flexibility I've been gaining in the last few months. Claire had a bit of a sit down while I popped into the kitchen to get us cups of tea. Bob was in the kitchen and said that Karen had had a pretty good run. It later turned out that Bob had done about 40 hours in the kitchen over the weekend, which is an endurance feat in itself!

After a couple of cups of tea and a much appreciated jacket spud, we headed back to the van for some sleep. It was about 6am and Claro Orienteers were just getting ready to set up the course for the northern champs. We crawled into our van bed and slept like logs, waking up at noon as the orienteering was winding down. 

A short drive into Grassington for some lunch, then home to deal with kit & washing, and start plotting next year's Fellsman. Possibly next year we won't decide to walk 120 miles the week before.

Kit List

• UD Fastpack 20
• short sleeved awdis base layer
• long sleeved awdis base layer
• spare long sleeved awdis base layer
• OMM flash tights
• Montane windproof
• Montane Element stretch waterproof - really good choice this. Was concerned about it being lower waterproof rating at 10k, but it was waterproof enough and far more breathable and comfortable than any of the alternatives.
• Montane Prism primaloft jacket - coupled with the waterproof I was very comfortable. Good combination and one I'll use for the Speyside I think.
• Montane Prism hat
• Silva Trail torch
• Zebralight H60 backup light
• primaloft buff
• couple of other buffs
• buffalo mittens
• rab powerstretch gloves
• Inov8 Ultra 260 shoes
• Old Bridgedale hiker socks & spare pair
• Bridgedale liner socks (probably unhelpful)
• Montane Trail gaiters
• Whitefurze screw top plastic mug
• Spork
• Garmin eTrex (unnecessary - Daz was supposed to be using it but didn't turn up)
• SOL survival bag
• foil poncho
• first aid kit
• dry sacks
• Montane coda cap
• 2 * UD body bottle
• phone
• Suunto A30 compass
• Fellsman 24 map
• pre-printed route map
• earplugs (after the perforated eardrum incident in 22)

Food

• Pitta pizzas * 2 (unpleasant once it started to get cold. 4 is too many to carry)
• Malt loaf (large) - ate about half of it
• Peanut butter 100mls - ate about half, useful to keep eating a bit, but it did make me gassy
• cheese - about 50g or so. Delicious
• 2 * cheese and onion rolls at Dent. No problems
• Jamaican pasty (carried, eaten at Stonehouse, no problems and a good boost)
• fig rolls * 5 or so. No problems
• jaffa cakes * 4. No problems
• Malt loaf (2 slices at Redshaw with some cheese)
• rice pudding at Fleet Moss
• soup at Cray
• chocolate and coffee at Park Rash

Lessons learned

• Carry a couple of boil-a-bags or something for rice pudding. Maybe a silicon cup or soft cup
• Route - check the Great Coum and Boot of the Wold routes with Claire / do a recce. Don't bother cutting the corner off Blea Moor, stick to the fence to the stile. Hop over the wall where it's solid (slightly to the right) off Dodd Fell. Look at the Gragareth line - maybe stick to the right of the wall for 100m
• Gaiters were adequate but annoying. I didn't get any gubbins in my shoes, but the hooks to attach to laces are crap, and the gaiters ride up badly.
• Inov8 shoes worked really well, but durability is a problem (as usual with Inov8). They were almost new at the start, and aged badly in the 100km
• I was warm and comfortable right up to Hell Gap, then got cold between there and Cray. That track is so rough and un-runnable (and downhill) that you cool right down. Layer up at Chapel Moor, or Hell Gap at the absolute latest.
• I ate a lot more than last year, but still not enough. The pitta pizzas were more palatable than last year but by the time it got cold they weren't very appealling. 4 is too many. A much wider variety of food needed, and more salt.
• Take a jetboil or something to boil kettle for tea in the morning