tl;dr - I finished it this time. It was fun.
My two previous attempts at the DTT didn't go to plan. The first one I hadn't recced the hardest section and tried to wing it with a frankly dodgy GPX from the LDWA website (I'll be uploading a replacement for that I think...). The second was curtailed by a named storm landing while I was in the most exposed part of the route. This time the weather forecast was good and I knew my way around.
The decision to go for it was a bit last minute - early last week I asked Claire if she'd be able to help out. I'd identified this weekend as one of a few possibles a while back. Wednesday and Friday evening I was cramming things into my pack, buying food and charging batteries. Since I rarely plan much in advance I have my own GPS trackers, and this weekend I was trying out a new one (more on that later).
Saturday morning we got up at about 8, had a leisurely breakfast and set off for Kettlewell. I wanted to start not that long before lunch, so I was doing the Mallerstang leg overnight and coming down into Hawes in the morning. That way I had a chance of picking up a coffee if anything was open. As it turned out the cafe at the station was open, but I didn't need them because Claire made a very welcome bonus stop at Hardraw.
I set off from Kettlewell clockwise up Kirk Fell, pausing briefly to take photos, and to send a good luck message to a colleague who was doing Wakefield 10k (his first race) on the sunday. The day was fresh and cool but sunny. I was a bit over-dressed, I'd opted for an insulated windproof instead of my windproof gilet, and was just slightly too warm until I packed it away.
The road section from Arncliffe is surprisingly not too awful. It's a quiet road, with some steep climbs that I'd much rather do on foot than in a vehicle. The surface is very very smooth, which makes running very easy. I'd rather be on the fell, but there was plenty of that later. An alternative route might be to go over Darnbrook, which would add some climb and some hard terrain, but a nicer alternative. This time there was a huge crowd of paragliders over Darnbrook.At the top of Fountains Fell I sat on the cairn and had a little bit of food. Rather than fighting through the tussocks I dropped back to the Pennine Way and down to the road, then on to Pen Y Gent. PYG was surprisingly busy for this late in the day, although chatting with some walkers I learned that a lot were doing the Y3P anticlockwise from Ribblehead.
On the way back down I stopped by the path to Bracken Bottom for something to eat. All day I tried to make a point of stopping for 5 mins to eat, rather than trying to keep going. The idea was to get round and have a nice time, not to try and hit a particular target.
Horton was fairly busy, as you'd expect on a nice spring day. I used the new railway bridge for the first time, and headed up Ingleborough. I'd hoped to fill my water bottle in the public toilets in Horton, but they still have those bloody stupid Wallgate handwashers so I was looking for a decent spring. I spotted one place and was trying to fill up when a passer by suggested that the water was flowing better a little higher up. Sure enough there was a nice big spring a couple of hundred metres along.
Somewhere around here I encountered the only group I saw with a bluetooth speaker blaring. I think they probably got the message from the look on my face. I know they don't know any better, but it's not exactly hard to figure out.
It was getting quiet by the time I reached the top, the sun was getting low in the sky and a hot air balloon was being scenic between me and the coast. I sat in the wind shelter and ate far too much (which completely screwed up my mood about half an hour later): java cake, cashews, hot cross bun & cheese.
Gloves and insulated windproof back on, and down to the Hill Inn then on up Whernside. There was extensive digging going on to reinforce the path at the bottom of Whernside, and I veered off the path to find a spring to refill my bottle. The light was starting to go, and so was my blood sugar. The reaction to the food I had on Ingleborough sent me into a bit of a despond. I munched down some malt loaf and plodded my way up the Fellsman trod towards the summit. Once I reached the top I felt a little bit more on top of things. I put my head torch on and headed down from the trig to Kingsdale.
Once I reached the road in Kingsdale I filled my bottle again, and put on my heavy coat, but zipped the pit zips right down. That was nice and cosy, and I was quite jolly as I worked my way round the occupation road towards Great Coum.I found a low spot on the fence to climb over and shoved my way through the tussocks to the col, then on up to the top. It was now properly dark and a rather nice night. I headed back towards the valley bottom and had a bit of a route debate.
On the one hand, the road through Dentdale is quiet but still a road. On the other hand, the valley side path is much nicer, but goes through a few farms. I didn't want to disturb people and set dogs barking at 9-10pm so I stuck to the road. This time I found the well hidden stile where the route turns downhill between two roads.
On, and on, and on along the road. It's actually only about 5-6km, but it seemed forever. Then steep uphill onto the very wet (and still very wet after weeks of hardly any rain) moor crossing to Garsdale.
The slope above the woods was drier this time, and easier to find my feet but I did turn my ankle a couple of times. At last I got into the woods then down to the road where Claire was waiting with a cup of tea ready made. The tracker didn't work perfectly, but well enough for her to know when to put the kettle on.
I stopped for about an hour at Garsdale. It was warm and cosy in the van, and I was happy to see Claire after being on the hill all day. 2 pints of tea, a pint of strong coffee and lots of pizza later, I got ready to go out again. I changed shoes for this next section: although arguably I'd have been better with Mudtalon Speed from the start, I'd conservatively put standard Mudtalons on in the morning. I also put on waterproof trousers, and my thick fleece lined Alpkit coat. With cheese scones in the bag and a flask of coffee I trotted down the main road.
The moon was so bright I switched my torch off most of the way through Grisedale, only putting it on once I passed the farm by the road. After that it's a steady climb up the road until it becomes a rough path along the side of Swarth Fell Pike, then up through the tussocks to the top. Once you get past the very boggy section Swarth Fell is a lovely hill, and it was nice to pick my way through the heather and rocks to the cairn at the top. Backtracking onto the pike I dropped into the valley bottom, filling my bottle in a stream on the way. I was comfortable but not too warm in my thick coat, although I did have the side zips all the way open.
Hopping over the border into Cumbria in Mallerstang, I carried on up towards Hell Gill. I stopped by an old barn to eat and drink, then passed by the farm. I went the wrong side of the wall just past the farm and had to backtrack, but it was only a hundred metres (along, maybe 10m ascent).
Much as I like the path up the crags from Hell Gill, it's a long slog. I ran in bursts, walking more as I approached the top, and finally reached Archy Styrigg or as the OS has it: Gregory Chapel. The path along the crag top was more obvious this time around under the bright moon.
There was a little snow on the junction cairn at Archy Styrigg. I took a photo and carried on to the trig ring at High Seat (I now know it's a trig - concrete ring trigs are something I learned about quite recently). The moon was now high in the sky and it was cold, with a light breeze but such a lovely night to be out. The bogs were nicely crunchy which made for easy running.
Back up Archy Styrigg and on to the long fence traverse to Great Shunner. This is now very familiar and much easier than previous visits. It's not at all runnable, so I was glad to be wrapped up warm and fastened up all the zips. I was onto the Buffalo mitts now.
At Great Shunner I cut away from the fence early instead of sticking to it and ended up slogging through tussocks to the top. I was in better shape this time (not so hypoglycaemic/hypothermic) and although it was hard work I was OK. Once again there were two tents pitched by the wind shelter. I tried to be quiet as it was about 4.30am, but stubbed my toe on a rock and swore loudly, which prompted a lot of grouse to alarm. Hopefully I didn't disturb anyone.
I made reasonable time down to Hardraw, but it's a long way. As I was on my way down I got a message from Claire to say she was there to meet me. I stopped for half an hour to have some coffee and more cheese scone, then onwards. I left my heavy coat in the van and put waterproofs on as it was starting to rain a little.
Hawes was fairly quiet, it was about 8-9am so just a few dog walkers around. The climb up on the Marsett path was steep and tough going, but I was still moving OK. Then through Marsett and up to Stalling Busk, stopping at the memorial bench for some food.
On Stake Lane my watch started to complain that it was almost flat, so I switched it into ultra max gps mode. That kept it going while I made my way down to Cray, where I found Claire waiting. I charged up my watch, had a cup of tea and dropped off a couple of bits of kit, then carried on along the Fellsman route to Buckden Pike.
At this point I was following Karen's GPX file blindly. I wondered if she'd taken the Tor Mere route, or the Fellsman route off Buckden Pike. It turned out she'd cut across Starbotton Moor through the tussocks and rushes, which was a bit swampy. I did wonder if there was a route to the left of Tor Mere, but looking down on it it looked like it might involve a lot of height loss. Worth investigating at some point though.
So that just left the climb up Black Dyke to the top of Great Whernside. I was climbing a bit slow, but still moving OK. There were more walkers around now in the early afternoon, although strangely no one on the top. I touched the trig and ran down into Kettlewell to meet Claire and complete the circuit.
Kit
- Awdis T shirts (2 long sleeved, 2 short, swapped at Garsdale)
- OMM flash tights (full length)
- Montane Ember insulated windproof (bad choice)
- Montane windproof gilet (only from Cray, should have carried throughout)
- Hemy waterproof socks (changed at Garsdale)
- bridgedale liner socks (changed at Garsdale)
- Inov8 mudtalons (to Garsdale)
- Inov8 mudtalon speed (from Garsdale)
- Black Diamond talus gaiters
- 2 person bothy
- Alpkit Jura insulated smock
- Columbia outdry extreme waterproof coat
- Kalenji waterproof trousers
- Buff cap
- Buffs (one primaloft)
- Harvey Yorkshire Dales map
- Suunto compass
- Garmin eTrex 20x
- Queclink tracker
- powerstretch gloves
- buffalo mittens
- Zebralight H60 spare torch
- spare AAs for Garmin
- Lifeventure mug (carried on one leg only)
- Salomon filter bottle
- spare soft flask
- glasses
- whistle
- UD Fastpack 20 rucksack
Food
- Hot Cross Buns (2)
- Cheese scones (4)
- Gouda cheese (10 slices?)
- cashews (quite a few)
- Jaffa cakes (5)
- pizza (1 - 1.5?)
- Nut food bar (1)
- Nakd bar (1)
- Malt loaf (1)
Carried a bit more food than this (incl 4 more food bars) but didn't eat it all
Lessons
- The coffee was very welcome. Carrying a lifeventure mug for one leg wasn't that much of a weight burden
- Keeping my pace low and jeffing from the start enabled me to run right to the end - I absolutely must not go out like an idiot on this year's Fellsman!
- The thick fleece lined coat was just right for through the night. It seemed like overkill when I was packing it. Again, possibly one for the Fellsman.
- My watch now doesn't last 25 hours, even in 'hike' mode - I need to carry a power bank and cable. This really bugs me - if only the handheld GPS did 'start activity' with a single button press, it'd be a viable replacement for a watch and I wouldn't need a piece of semi-disposable electronics every few years
- The skinsosoft had crystallised in my cold bathroom, which stopped the spray working. Not having applied enough I got some painful chafing. Not sure how to avoid that - maybe a small bottle in my bag.
Tracking
Recently I bought a Queclink GL320 GPS tracker from ebay for things like this. I'd experimented with a cheapo Sinotrack tracker before, but the Queclink is a more substantial device with long battery life and a waterproof case (update: although I think it's now knackered. I've ordered a GL300 for a tenner, maybe that will work better).
I'd linked it up to gps-server.net on a free account (they don't do free anymore, but it's only 15E per year), and that seemed to work OK at home, with a few oddities. What we found in the Dales though was that the O2 coverage isn't that great, so my tracker often ended up stuck on top of a hill for ages. It might be worth trying a couple of different networks to see who has the best coverage, or putting the tracker on my shoulder strap the way a lot of races do.